Wischnewski in Guinea-Bissau (March 2026)

Hello all!

Guinea-Bissau is one of the last truly off-the-radar destinations in West Africa, where travel still feels raw, unpredictable, and deeply authentic. Over three weeks on the road, you move through a country where red dirt tracks replace highways and every kilometer demands patience, flexibility, and curiosity. Encounters are not staged for tourists but happen naturally, often turning into the most memorable moments of the journey. From the faded colonial atmosphere of Bolama to the remote island world of the Bijagós Archipelago, the contrasts are striking and constantly surprising.

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We enter Guinea-Bissau the hard way, on roads that demand respect from the very first kilometer: For just 140 kilometers, we need 8.5 hours, crawling through endless potholes that turn driving into constant concentration. It was exhausting, but also a clear signal of what travel in this country really means: slow, raw, and uncompromising.

At the same time, the streets are full of life, as people celebrate the end of Ramadan in colorful clothes and a surprisingly relaxed, open version of Islam. Along the coast, fish dominates the menu everywhere; Heike enjoys every meal, while I remain more of a spectator (I don’t like fish at all…).

We are now traveling with a new, smaller group, together with ‚Carsten and Marlis‘ from Hamburg. Altogether we will travel together in a ‚travel family‘ for circa 3 months and we had a great time, forming an easy team.

In Bissau, the pace slows down even further, not by choice but by necessity. There is not much to do, apart from wandering through lively local markets and organizing the basics like shopping and obtaining money (my credit card got stuck what caused some issues for getting it back…). But still, Bissau is mainly a staging point for what we really came for: the Bijagós Archipelago.

Early in the morning, we leave the mainland behind and (very little) board a speedboat into a completely different world. On the way, we stop in ‚Bolama‘, the former capital, where colonial buildings slowly decay under the tropical climate. The place feels forgotten, yet strangely atmospheric, with history visible in every wall and wonderful Kapok Trees everywhere.

A few hours later, we arrive on Bubaque, and the transition is immediate: from stress to calm. Our lodge offers something rare on this journey, a moment of comfort with a pool, music, and a relaxed rhythm of the day. Dogs and small goats move freely around the property, while the view opens up to islands, mangroves, and scattered baobabs. We spend time walking through nearby villages, experiencing everyday life that feels unfiltered and real.

One evening, a local dance performance brings together music, movement, and community in a way that feels both simple and deeply authentic. That was a fantastic show, and it did not feel ‚touristic‘ since the whole village population attended the show (they liked it also very much).

Another great spot in Guinea-Bissau was „Varela Beach“ at the cost side. I know that it is hard to believe for you, but sometimes we need a rest from travelling (a vacation within the vacation)… you get so much input on the road that it requires a break here-and-there.

Greetings from
Heike & Carsten

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